The first time I went to a neighbourhood hammam in Morocco, I had no idea what I was doing! My husband gave me some vague instructions at the door before slipping into the men’s side, leaving me alone in the women’s section.
I was so nervous - not only because everyone was almost completely naked (aside from knickers/briefs) but because they were all so purposefully busy at work. I found a space and settled in, scrubbing occasionally at the parts of my body I could reach but mostly just closing my eyes and treating the experience like a steam bath. Boy, did I have a lot to learn.
The second time I went was with my mother-in-law, who immediately took the reins and scrubbed me from head to toe. When she wasn’t scrubbing me until I was squeaky clean, she was scrubbing herself and chatting with the women around her while turning to me occasionally to tell me to “keep scrubbing”!
While the experience wasn’t quite as relaxing as the first time, it was a whole lot more fun and I felt like I had entered into a secret women’s world! Everyone was so friendly and there was zero judgement from anybody about the naked bodies surrounding them. It felt like a really authentic cultural experience AND I left cleaner than I had ever been in my entire life!
What to expect at a Moroccan hammam
This article is all about helping you to navigate your first time at a Moroccan hammam, whether you’re after a neighbourhood experience or a luxury treat. It will answer all the questions you might have about this “must-do” experience in Morocco, so that you can walk in there confidently and hammam like a pro.
What to expect at a Moroccan hammam
What is a hammam?
The hammam is a deeply-rooted cultural institution within the Islamic world that was modelled on the ancient Roman thermae. It has evolved over centuries to become a prominent feature of Muslim societies, serving both religious and civic functions. Archeological evidence shows that public bathhouses have existed in the Islamic world since the Umayyad period in the 7th and 8th centuries.
Architecturally, traditional hammams feature a sequence of rooms designed to facilitate the bathing experience - an undressing room, a cold room, a warm room and a hot room. These spaces are heated by elaborate furnace systems that channel hot water and steam through conduits under the floors, creating the signature steamy environment for which hammams are renowned.
Beyond just bathing, the hammam has historically served as an important social and communal space, where both men and women can gather to converse and bond. In Morocco, you’ll find a hammam in most towns and villages, as well as in neighbourhoods of bigger cities. While many Moroccans now have showers in their homes, they’ll still come to the hammam once a week or so for a deep clean.
Neighbourhood hammams vs luxury hammams in Morocco
When you read lists of the “best things to do in Morocco”, most recommend that you go to a hammam. But there are two wildly different hammam experiences on offer - the neighbourhood hammam and the luxury hammam. One is a real cultural experience while the other is more like being at a pampering spa.
While traditional, neighbourhood hammams are divided by gender, upscale hammams at hotels and riads may be accessible to couples and booked out exclusively. I don’t think one is better than the other, they’re just completely different. If possible, I’d recommend trying both!
Read on to discover what you can expect at a neighbourhood hammam vs a luxury hammam in Morocco and how to plan your visit.
What to expect at a Moroccan hammam
What to expect at a neighbourhood hammam in Morocco
Neighbourhood hammams have a much more utilitarian feel compared to luxury hammams - they are places to bathe and catch up on the local gossip. One of the most striking differences is the complete lack of privacy. Neighbourhood hammams are communal facilities, with large, open rooms where everyone packs in together.
Upon entering, you'll encounter the ticket booth, where you'll pay a small fee, around 10-20 dirhams if you plan to bathe yourself or around 50 dirhams if you'd like to be scrubbed and exfoliated by an attendant. Here, you can also purchase soaps, shampoos and loofahs/exfoliating gloves (if you don’t have your own), as well as savon beldi, a traditional black soap made from olive oil and laurel that plays an integral role in the hammam experience.
Once you pass through the entrance, you’ll arrive in the changing area with rows of lockers lining the walls. Here, you can store your personal items and change of clothing. As with any communal facility, I’d avoid bringing valuable jewellery, credit cards or money with you - stick with just a small amount of cash to pay your entrance fee and any other essentials you need.
Strip off in the changing room and leave just your briefs/knickers on. Some Moroccan women also ditch their bottoms - it’s up to you. If you’re not ready to go topless yet, you could also wear a bikini top or sports bra.
Once you step inside the hammam itself, you’ll find there are different chambers, which get increasingly hotter as you move away from the entrance door. The first room is usually a warm and inviting space - the perfect place to acclimate your body and relax into the soothing ambiance. In the next chamber, the heat intensifies and this is where you'll really begin to feel the cleansing effects as your pores open up.
In the hottest room, you’ll feel a penetrating heat and the air can be quite stifling. But if you want to surrender yourself to the transformative power of the steam, this is the place to be!
In each of the rooms, there are spigots where you can fill your water bucket with cool water - essential for regulating your body temperature and cleaning away dead skin. Once you’ve found your spot and have settled in, rinse your body with water and start by rubbing the savon beldi soap all over your body. Leave it for 5 or 10 minutes and use this opportunity to sit back and relax in the warmth of the room.
Then, it’s time to get to work, scrubbing every inch of your body with your loofah or exfoliating glove. If you don’t want to do it yourself or need help reaching your back, you can pay a little extra to have an attendant scrub for you. This is organised at the ticket booth before you enter the hammam. Whenever I’ve gone to the hammam alone, there has always been someone nearby who has offered to scrub my back and I’ve scrubbed their back in return. Don’t worry about the language barrier - hand gestures will do the job!
This is the part of a neighbourhood hammam that I really love - women supporting other women while celebrating the beauty of the female body in all of its shapes and forms. I initially felt quite daunted about being naked in front of so many strangers but I’ve grown to love how liberating it feels. While Moroccan women dress quite conservatively in the street, the hammam is a place where they can completely strip off and socialise with their sisters.
As you’re scrubbing from head to toe, periodically rinse away all the skin that’s been removed into the central drain. Once you’re done, you can use your regular soap for a fragrant lather and shampoo/condition your hair, just as you would in the shower. If you want to shave your body hair, that’s also fine, just remember to rinse it down the drain when you’re done.
How long should you spend in the hammam? That’s entirely up to you. Some women are in and out in 45 minutes while others spend hours, using the opportunity to catch up with friends and enjoy a break from the chores of daily life. It’s worth mentioning that neighbourhood hammams are not usually quiet and tranquil places. Expect loud chatting and kids squealing, all in a setting that can be quite reverberative.
But it’s an incredible cultural experience and a great way to connect with Moroccan women of all ages. If you’re worried about being naked in front of other people, I think this is one of the safest places to get comfortable with the feeling and learn to love your body a little more.
What you need to take to a neighbourhood Moroccan hammam
• savon beldi (a traditional black soap made from olive oil and laurel that can be purchased at most hammams)
• an exfoliating glove or loofah (can also be purchased at the hammam)
• regular soap, shampoo/conditioner, shaver
• a water bucket and small cup or bucket for scooping water (can be hired at the hammam)
• plastic flip-flops/thongs to wear inside the hammam
• a towel or robe for after the hammam
• moisturisers and creams you like to use after a bath
• a change of underwear
What to expect at a Moroccan hammam
What to expect at a luxury hammam in Morocco
While the neighbourhood hammam experience in Morocco is sort of like a community event, the luxury hammam is more akin to that of an upscale spa. When you book, the hammam will be reserved exclusively for you, so you don’t have to worry about being undressed in front of any strangers, except for the hammam attendant.
Luxury hammams are often located inside riads and hotels, with many beautifully decorated with traditional Moroccan tiles. Each is unique in its size and design but the experience on offer will go something like this:
Upon arrival, you'll be asked to take your clothes off (leaving only your undergarments on) and put on a robe or towel. You'll then be escorted into the hammam where you can sit back and allow yourself to unwind for a few minutes as your body adjusts to the warmth and steam. The attendant will then massage savon beldi (a traditional black soap made from olive oil and laurel) all over your body and leave it to work its magic.
Armed with a kess (a special exfoliating mitt), they will then scrub your entire body, methodically removing layers of dead skin and impurities. While the sensation may feel a bit rough at first, this is the key to revealing your softest, smoothest skin. Most attendants will check in with you if it’s too strong but, if not, let them know to reduce the pressure if you feel like you’re being rubbed raw.
Once satisfied with the exfoliation, the attendant may bathe you further, using a fragrant soap to cleanse your body and shampoo your hair. Alternatively, you may be left to complete these final steps on your own while revelling in your rejuvenated state. The entire process, from start to finish, typically takes between 30 to 45 minutes and will leave you with skin feeling softer and cleaner than ever before!
What you need to take to a luxury Moroccan hammam
• plastic flip-flops/thongs to wear inside the hammam
• moisturisers and creams you like to use after a bath
• a change of underwear
Everything else is usually provided by the hammam!