There are few places in Morocco quite as spellbinding as Ait Benhaddou, an ancient ksar that has stood sentinel over the Ounila Valley for centuries. The first time I visited, I couldn’t quite believe it was real as it felt like something straight out of a film. In fact, scenes from “Lawrence of Arabia”, “Babel” and “Gladiator” have been shot here (among many others), with the vision of earthen clay buildings huddled along a hillside truly striking.
Ait Benhaddou was once an important stop along the trading route between the Sahara and Marrakech. For centuries, camel caravans laden with salt and spices would rest in the shade of Aït Benhaddou before continuing on their long journeys. Today, this magical village remains a remarkable example of traditional Moroccan architecture, so much so that it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
Walking through its winding alleys is like entering a living museum that transports you to another era and is for me, one of the best places to visit in Morocco. But getting to Ait Benhaddou independently is not straightforward, with limited public transport options.
In this Ultimate Travel Guide to Ait Benhaddou, discover everything you need to know about exploring the ancient ksar, including tips for getting there, top tours and the best places to stay.
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BEST TOURS TO AIT BENHADDOU
Don't have time to read the whole article? These are my top Ait Benhaddou tour recommendations:
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History of Ait Benhaddou
Strategically situated along the trans-Saharan trade route, Ait Benhaddou’s fortified walls were established in the 11th century to protect merchants and travellers journeying from the Sahara to Marrakech. They rested here before travelling through the unforgiving Atlas Mountains along the Tizi n Tichka pass. Linking Marrakech with the Draa Valley, this critical route funnelled caravans laden with salt, gold and spices through the narrow mountain pass.
Ait Benhaddou was just one of many fortified ksour (singular "ksar") studding this route and it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a significant example of pre-Saharan earthen construction techniques and was built entirely from local materials like rammed earth, adobe, clay and wood. Most of the buildings that remain today date back to the 17th century when Ait Benhaddout rose to to prominence.
Rammed earth (known locally as pisé, tabia or al-luh) was the main building material. It was created by compacting a mixture of earth, clay, sand, straw and water into rigid yet permeable walls. This ingenious method allowed villagers to construct sturdy homes at minimal cost using the very ground beneath their feet. The earth and straw mixture, though porous, provided effective shelter. Builders added wooden beams for support and used lighter adobe bricks on the upper floors to reduce the load on rammed earth walls below.
While it may appear vulnerable to modern eyes, Ait Benhaddou was ingeniously designed for defence. In centuries gone by, its residents faced a delicate balancing act - welcoming commerce while also protecting themselves from those who might overstay their welcome. Its outer walls of mud and clay provided the first line of protection. Beyond lay a maze of tightly packed buildings and narrow paths that unexpectedly twist into steep staircases, confusing any invaders who breached the outer walls. And at the very top sits a fortress that residents could retreat to as a last resort.
These days, Ait Benhaddou remains a bustling trading post, although it’s mostly souvenirs (rather than practical goods) that stock the stalls. Locals make a living by setting up makeshift shops in the spaces between the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s earthen walls, ensuring its living heritage of commerce carries on.
How to visit Ait Benhaddou
Exploring Ait Benhaddou
Ait Benhaddou lies alongside a modern village where you’ll find a good choice of guesthouses and restaurants serving tagine and couscous. It’s here that you’ll arrive, whether you’re coming by grand taxi, hire car or on a private tour. A bridge connects across the river to the entrance to the ksar and UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ait Benhaddou really is a place for wandering, with a labyrinth of winding alleys leading between its earthen kasbahs and hidden homes. As a living village, the site has no gates or opening hours, so you can explore freely at your leisure. While there's no official entry fee, you may be asked for a small donation, which will help with the upkeep of the site and provide support to the local community.
Within the crumbling ksar are a handful of museums and historic homes that can be entered for a couple of dollars, offering a fascinating insight into life in this unique village. Marvel at Amazigh arts and crafts in the House of Orality or learn about the Hollywood blockbusters filmed in the area at the Cinema House. Ait Benhaddou was also used as a film setting for “Game of Thrones”, making it a must visit for fans of the TV series.
In addition to a mosque for prayer, there’s a caravanserai that once welcomed merchants and travellers, plus an imposing kasbah from where the chieftains once ruled. Up on the hill's summit presides the crumbling yet mighty agadir, a former granary and lookout post. This is the place to watch the sunset!
Tours to Ait Benhaddou
Tours to Ait Benhaddou
While wandering the ancient ksar of Ait Benhaddou is an incredible experience in itself, you’ll gain so much more on a guided tour. It will really immerse you in the history of the site and the important role it played on the trans-Saharan trade route.
If you’re travelling independently, I highly recommend this two-hour guided tour of Ait Benhaddou, which is available in English, French or Spanish. For those wanting to visit as a day trip from Marrakech, this full-day Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate day trip takes you over the spectacular Tizi n Tichka Pass and includes around two hours in the ancient ksar. Keep in mind that the journey from Marrakech to Ait Benhaddou is more than 3 hours each way, so you will be spending a lot of time on the road.
I’d advise against cramming Ait Benhaddou into a rushed, whirlwind day trip from Marrakech and opt for a two or three-night adventure instead. Most start/end in either Marrakech or Fes and include a camel trekking experience in the Sahara Desert. Not only will you have ample time to explore the winding alleys and earthen brick towers of Ait Benhaddou but you'll get to experience the majestic Atlas Mountains, the sweeping sand dunes of the Sahara and the dreamy landscapes of Dades and Todra gorges.
For a memorable two-night tour, check out this Marrakech to Merzouga Sahara Desert Adventure, including one night at a desert Amazigh camp. Alternatively, experience Dades and Todra gorges on this 3-day Sahara Desert tour. It takes in some of my favourite parts of Morocco, including some underrated gems.
Alternatively, you can get a private transfer in the early morning/late evening from Ouarzazate and overnight there instead. To learn more about Ouarzazate, including the best places to stay in the desert city, check out my Ultimate Travel Guide to Ouarzazate.
Travel guide to Ait Benhaddou
Best places to stay in Ait Benhaddou
Each time we’ve visited Ait Benhaddou we have stayed overnight and I’ve loved exploring the ksar once the tourist groups leave for the day. The light at sunrise and sunset is truly magical for taking photos of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, something that is only really possible if you stay the night.
The good news is, there is a growing number of wonderful places to stay in Ait Benhaddou, including boutique hotels and family-run guesthouses. Most have their own restaurants onsite, so you can come home to a delicious meal at the end of a long day’s exploration.
Just a stone’s throw from the gates of the fortified village, this Ait Benhaddou hotel offers comfortable rooms and a refreshing swimming pool where you can retreat during the heat of the day. Breakfast is included and the staff receive rave reviews for their hospitality.
With its decor inspired by an ancient kasbah, this enchanting hotel offers a range of suites suitable for couples, families and independent travellers. There’s a swimming pool with sun loungers, a daybed on the rooftop terrace and a restaurant serving regional specialties.
While located a little further from the UNESCO site, this family-run Ait Benhaddou guesthouse receives rave reviews for its hospitality and delicious tagines. It has been thoughtfully decorated with Amazigh textiles and features a sun-drenched interior patio where inclusive breakfasts are served.
Travel guide to Ait Benhaddou
Best time to visit Ait Benhaddou
For warm weather fans, the best time to visit Ait Benhaddou is from late spring through to early autumn. By June, temperatures can be in the mid-30s and exploring the ancient ksar during the middle of the day may be too much for some. In July and August, daytime temperatures are often scorching and this is one of the busiest times at Ait Benhaddou due to the European summer holidays.
If you prefer smaller crowds and milder temperatures, visit during the shoulder seasons of March to May or September to November. You'll get warm days to explore the labyrinthine alleys, without the intense summer heat.
For a quieter, more local experience, visit Ait Benhaddou in the winter months. Daytime temperatures hover around 10 degrees Celsius, so it’s brisk but comfortable enough with the abundant sunshine.
Best time to visit Ait Benhaddou
FAQs
Where is Ait Benhaddou?
Ait Benhaddou is located around 100 kilometres to the southeast of Marrakech and is reached by passing over the Tizi n Tichka Pass of the Atlas Mountains. Ait Benhaddou is located en route to Ouarzazate, which is just 25 kilometres from the ancient site.
What is the best way to reach Ait Benhaddou?
Getting to Ait Benhaddou is a little tricky with public transport as there are no direct buses. The best way is to hop on a Supratours or CTM bus bound for Ouarzazate, with the journey taking around 5 hours one-way. From Ouarzazate, you can take a grand taxi to Ait Benhaddou, which costs around 200 Moroccan dirhams for the roundtrip. Alternatively, you can get off the bus at the junction to Ait Benhaddou and (fingers crossed) hail a taxi for the last stretch.
How much does it cost to visit Ait Benhaddou?
As Ait Benhaddou is a living village, there is no official entrance fee. That being said, you may be asked to make a donation upon entry, so have some spare dirhams ready. I feel this is more than reasonable to support the continued preservation of Ait Benhaddou and the communities who live here. If you want to visit some of the ksar’s museums and historic homes, admission to these individual attractions ranges from 20dh to 50dh.
What are Ait Benhaddou’s opening hours?
Unlike many historical sites, Ait Benhaddou is a living village still inhabited by families. So it doesn’t have official opening hours and is never “closed”. While select museums and historic structures have visiting hours from 9 am to 6 pm, the village itself is open 24/7.
Are there tours to Ait Benhaddou?
Whether you’re after a short, guided tour of the ancient ksar or a multi-day trip from Marrakech and Fes, there are plenty of Ait Benhaddou tours to choose from. If you’re travelling independently, I highly recommend this two-hour guided tour of Ait Benhaddou, which is available in English, French or Spanish. For those wanting to visit as a day trip from Marrakech, this full-day Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate day trip takes you over the spectacular Tizi n Tichka Pass and includes around two hours in the ancient ksar.
For a memorable two-night tour, check out this Marrakech to Merzouga Sahara Desert Adventure, including one night at a desert camp. If time allows, I would highly recommend adding an extra night to experience Dades and Todra gorges on this 3-day Sahara Desert tour. It can start/end in either Marrakech or Fes, with the option to use it as a means of transferring between the two cities.
Is Ait Benhaddou worth visiting?
Yes! Ait Benhaddou is most definitely worth visiting. Simply put, it’s an enchanting place that will appeal to culture vultures, history enthusiasts and film buffs alike. If time allows, I highly recommend staying overnight to explore the site without the crowds and enjoy the atmospheric sunrise/sunset light for photography. But if you’re short on time and can only visit for a couple of hours during a day trip or multi-day tour, Ait Benhaddou is still an incredible place to explore.
When is the best time to visit Ait Benhaddou?
The ancient ksar of Ait Benhaddou is a year-round destination, but visiting during different seasons offers vastly different experiences. For those who don't love the heat, late spring to early fall is ideal. By June, temperatures soar into the 30s, making mid-day exploration a scorching adventure. July and August bring sizzling heat and teeming crowds of European vacationers.
To beat the extreme heat and hordes of tourists, visit during the shoulder seasons of March-May or September-November. You'll find pleasantly warm days to meander the winding alleys, without the intensity of summer. For a quieter, more local vibe, bundle up and visit in the winter months. Despite the brisk days (around 10°C), it's comfortable enough to explore amidst the abundant sunshine.
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