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Writer's pictureMalika

The Ultimate Travel Guide to Fes

Updated: Dec 11

As one of Morocco's most ancient cities, Fes overflows with cultural treasures and should be high on every traveller’s “must-visit” list. Founded in the 9th century, it was home to one of the first universities in the world and contains the largest intact medieval old city in existence. It's no wonder Fes is often referred to as Morocco's cultural capital


Fes was one of the first places we visited as a couple after we met and I loved it from the moment we arrived! From the labyrinthine alleys of Fes’s medieval medina to the architectural marvels of its mosques and medersas, this city never fails to enchant. Add to that colourful souks overflowing with traditional crafts and palatial riads, I think Fes is like nowhere else in Morocco.


In this Ultimate Travel Guide to Fes, discover everything you need to know to experience this ancient city to the fullest, from the best things to do and incredible riad stays to my top tour recommendations. 


black and white photo of fes city skyline

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BEST TOURS IN FES


Don't have time to read the whole article? These are my top Fes tour recommendations:










Things to do in Fes


Get lost in the winding alleys of Fes el Bali


This sprawling neighbourhood is a world unto itself, where you can lose yourself in the sights, sounds and smells of Morocco's cultural capital. Pass through the grand, 14th-century entrance of Bab Boujloud to catch your first glimpse of the green-tiled minaret of Medersa Bou Inania, rising over the rooftops.


Within the ancient walls, Fes el Bali is divided by a meandering river. To the left is where you'll find historic monuments like Al Quaraouiyine Mosque, along with shopping souks selling traditional Moroccan wares. From vibrant leather poufs to gleaming brass platters and iconic Fassi pottery, Fes is renowned for its artisan goods. The right bank has more of a local vibe, with photogenic blue alleyways where you can observe the comings and goings of daily life.


With its hilly cobblestone lanes, Fes el Bali is best explored on foot. I’d recommend putting aside a few hours to just wander and get purposefully lost, soaking up its one-of-a-kind atmosphere. Exploring the area is not so much about ticking off sights but discovering unexpected corners and enjoying authentic encounters with locals. 


Don't want to explore Fes al Bali alone? This Half-day tour of Fes is led by a highly knowledgeable guide who will share their unique insights on the city.


Visit Al Quaraouiyine Mosque and Al Attarine Madrasa


Al Quaraouiyine was founded in 859 BCE by Fatima al-Fihri as an ancient university and still operates today as a mosque. While its prayer hall is off-limits to non-Muslims, its library is accessible to all. Renovated in 2016, it features ornate tilework and centuries-old manuscripts, offering an insight into Al Quaraouiyine’s rich past as one of the world's oldest continually operating universities.


Next to the mosque is Al Attarine Madrasa, a 14th-century Islamic school named after the bustling marketplace nearby. Marvel at the intricate blue and green tilework, ornately carved plaster and fragrant cedar wood as you wander through its tranquil courtyard. In the adjacent market, you’ll find spices, nuts and dried fruit piled high, just as they have been for generations.


Want to discover more madrasas? This article details 6 of the Most Beautiful Madrasas in Fes.


al quaraouiyine mosque fes morocco

Best things to do in Fes


Explore the museum of Dar Batha


This engaging museum is housed in a stunning Hispano-Moorish summer palace that dates back to the 19th century. On display are intricate wood carvings, ironwork and textiles, as well as handcrafted Moroccan jewellery. For anyone interested in Moroccan design, this museum is a “must”!


The star exhibit is the ceramics room, home to a collection of iconic blue-and-white Fassi pottery for which Fes is renowned. As captivating as the museum’s exhibits are, the building itself enchants with a shady internal courtyard filled with palms and flowering trees. Be sure to allow enough time to relax amidst its mosaic tiles and burbling fountains!


For more cultural inspiration, check out this list of the Best Museums in Fes.


leather tannery from above in fes travel guide

Best things to do in Fes


Photograph the Chouara Tannery


Fes is home to the oldest leather tanning site on earth and marvelling at the colourful pits of the Chouara Tannery is one of the best things to do in Fes. Watch as leatherworkers ply their ancient trade amid a sprawling complex of houses and shops, many of which are now filled with leather products crafted nearby. 


While visiting the tannery is a “must”, be warned that the pungent aroma of dyeing vats is intense, so come prepared with a scarf to cover your nose or mint leaves to inhale. Witnessing the time-honoured techniques (unchanged for centuries) of these artisans is fascinating. So too is the treasure trove of quality leather goods available to take home as souvenirs.


Admire the Medersa Bou Inania


At the entrance to the old medina is this former theological college, which was commissioned by Sultan Bou Inan in the 14th century. Having undergone a meticulous restoration, its intricate beauty is shining once more, with stunning mosaics, carved plaster designs and delicate cedar mashrabiyas framing the imposing doors. 


The interior of the Medersa Bou Inania is equally impressive, with a serene courtyard fountain surrounded by hand-carved walls and colorful zellij tilework. Be sure to climb to the two floors of classrooms where Muslim intellectuals once gathered to study and debate in centuries gone by. 


The Medersa Bou Inania is just one of the architectural marvels visited on this informative Full-day tour of Fes.


Stroll through the Mellah quarter


The Mellah quarter has a fascinating history dating back to the 14th century when it first became home to the Jewish community in Fes. At its peak, this thriving neighborhood was home to over 250,000 Jews and the architecture still reflects these roots. 


At the heart of the Mellah quarter is the historic Ibn Danan synagogue, which dates back to the 17th century and is entered through an unassuming door. While only a handful of Jewish residents remain (most left following the creation of Israel), the Mellah still holds onto its heritage and offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of Morocco’s Jewish community


You can learn more about Morocco's Jewish cultural heritage in this detailed article.


a winding alley in fes medina travel guide

Best things to do in Fes


Visit the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Crafts


Hidden amid the metalworker shops of Place Nejjarine is a historic inn that once served a rest stop for travelling traders. It now showcases Morocco's rich artistic heritage as the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Crafts


Wander through the salons where merchants once slept, with engraved granary doors, ornate dowry chests and delicate mashrabiya screens now filling the rooms. While the informative displays offer a unique insight into the country’s artisanal legacy, the splendour of the building is worth the entrance price alone. At the heart of the property is a central courtyard that has been majestically restored, with sturdy pillars and carved wood detailing.


Relax in the Bou Jeloud Gardens


If you need to escape the hustle and bustle of the medina or just want a change of scenery, these lush gardens are a tranquil oasis near Bab Boujloud. Stroll along the winding garden paths lined with seasonal flower beds and gurgling fountains that never fail to soothe the senses.


One of the best times to visit is as the day draws to a close, with many locals coming to stroll and enjoy time with their family. In summer, people gather along the trails to admire the sunset colours and enjoy the cooler evening air. I simply love gardens and always seek them out when I’m travelling. In my opinion, Bou Jeloud is not to be missed. 



intricate detailings in a building fes morocco

Best things to do in Fes


Soak up the city views from the Merenid Tombs and Borj Nord


Perched atop a hill overlooking the ancient city of Fes are two important historic sites. Make the steep trek up to Borj Nord and you’ll encounter its 16th-century fortress, which now houses an intriguing military museum. Inside is a cache of rare weapons from around the world, including a massive 12-ton cannon used in the Battle of the Three Kings.


Continue walking up the hill until you reach the summit, where the golden-hued Merenid Tombs rest in solitude. While the crumbling tombs are in disrepair, the panoramic views of the city below and the rolling green hills in the distance are spectacular. This is a particularly popular spot to watch the sunset in Fes!


Top tours in Fes









For more detailed information about the tours above, check out my list of the Best Fes Tours and Day Trips.


inside a palatial riad in fes medina

Top tours in Fes


How to get to Fes


Fly to Fes-Saiss Airport


Located just 15 kilometres from the city centre is Fes-Saiss Airport, which receives flights from all major Moroccan cities and many European destinations. You can fly direct to Fes from London, Marseille and Barcelona, as well as Amsterdam, Paris and Rome. 


The most affordable way to get from Fes-Saiss Airport into the city centre is by the number 16 public bus. Taxis are also available outside the arrivals terminal (be ready to negotiate the price) or you can book a prepaid private transfer for a hassle-free experience.


Private transfer


The most comfortable and convenient way to reach Fes is by booking a private transfer, especially if you're traveling in a group. You'll get door-to-door service directly to your hotel or riad, avoiding the hassle of lugging bags to a bus station or negotiating fares with taxi drivers. Fes private transfers are available from most major cities across Morocco. 






By train


If you’re travelling to Fes from within Moroccan, train may be the most convenient option. The main railway station is Fes-Ville, which has regular connections to Casablanca, Tangier and Marrakech. Fares are relatively affordable and you can opt for extra comfort by booking a first-class ticket. 


Bus


One of the most affordable ways to reach Fes is by bus, with the Gare Routière bus terminal conveniently located in the northern quarter of the city. There are bus services to Fes from Marrakech, Essaouira and Tangier, as well as Rabat and Casablanca. The journey from Casablanca takes just under 5 hours, with departures every hour. With some buses departing in the evening, you can save on accommodation by booking an overnight trip if you’re travelling from further afield. 


moroccan mint tea in silver pot

Best places to stay in Fes


Best places to stay in Fes


As with Marrakech, Fes is renowned for its riad hotels and staying in one of these traditional homes offers an enchanting journey into Morocco's past. There are sumptuous historic details around every corner, from stucco mouldings to colourful tilework and arched doorways. That being said, you don’t have to miss out on modern luxuries like air conditioning, comfortable beds and rooftop plunge pools!


Most of the best riads in Fes sit in the mid-range or luxury category, but smaller guesthouses called dars also await the budget-conscious traveller. With so many choices crammed into this fascinating city, deciding where to lay your head can be a challenge. To help you out, I’ve put together a list of some of my favourite places to stay in Fes. 


If you're after a high-end stay, this article details 7 of the Best Luxury Hotels in Fes.


Luxury places to stay in Fes





Mid-range places to stay in Fes





Affordable places to stay in Fes





For more Fes accommodation ideas, check out my list featuring 8 of the Best Riads in Fes.


black and white photo al quaraouiyine mosque fes

Fes travel guide


Best time to visit Fes


The best times to visit Fes are during the spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November) when temperatures are just right for exploring this fascinating city. With highs hovering around 20 degrees Celsius, you'll be comfortable walking the winding streets both day and night. 


Summertime temperatures can reach the high 30s and the crowds of tourists are at their heaviest. If you’re visiting during this period, I’d recommend heading out to explore in the early morning, then again in the evening, with the middle of the day spent luxuriating at your riad. 


Winter can be very chilly, with temperatures dipping below 4 degrees C at night. But it’s also one of the quietest times to visit Fes, offering a more authentic experience amongst the locals. 


 

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About the author


Photo of the author - Malika in Morocco

I'm Malika, a global traveller who first visited Morocco in 2014 before marrying a local and settling down in a little village on the Atlantic coast. Over the years, I've developed an intense love for Morocco, its majestic landscapes, storied cities and the incredibly warm hospitality of its people. As the owner and content creator of Malika in Morocco, I share my years of experience exploring the country, from north to south and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Sahara Desert. I am passionate about helping others plan their Moroccan travel adventures to ensure they get the most out of their North African experience. 


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