While Morocco is recognised as a predominantly Islamic country (more than 99% of the population identifies as Muslim), its Jewish community has a remarkably long and storied history. At its peak in the mid-20th century, the Jewish population numbered around 265,000 individuals, making Morocco home to the largest Jewish community in the entire Muslim world.
However, in the decades since Israel's founding in 1948, the Jewish presence in Morocco has declined dramatically, with only around 2,000 or so remaining today. Despite this, the imprint of Moroccan Jewry on the country's heritage remains indelible and Jewish pilgrimages to Morocco (Hiloula) offer a fascinating opportunity for cultural connection.
In this article, I’ll explain the history of Jews in Morocco and what led to such a dramatic population decline, as well as how you can discover Morocco’s Jewish cultural heritage today.
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A brief history of Moroccan Jews
The presence of Jewish communities in Morocco can be traced back thousands of years, rooted in the dynamic history and migrations of the Mediterranean basin. Archaeological excavations in the ancient city of Volubilis have uncovered compelling evidence of various Amazigh tribes who practiced the Jewish faith, dating back as far as the 2nd century BCE. This Indigenous Jewish nucleus, known as the Imazighen Udayen (meaning "the Amazigh of Jewish faith"), likely adopted Judaism through contact and interaction with the influential Carthaginian and Phoenician civilisations that once dominated the region.
Over the centuries, this Judaized Amazigh population was further bolstered by waves of Jewish arrivals, particularly during the Roman, Byzantine and Visigoth eras. Among these later immigrant groups were the Toshavim, Jews who fled religious persecution and intolerance in Europe during the early Christian period and the European Middle Ages. Each of these Jewish communities brought their own unique cultural traditions, which were interwoven into the fabric of Moroccan society.
A steady influx of Jewish migration to the region continued following the 7th-century arrival of Muslims in Morocco, with Jewish communities continuing to arrive from Salonica, Constantinople and Egypt. The establishment of Muslim rule didn’t stifle the flourishing of Jewish culture, in large part due to the Dhimma contract - a legal agreement that acknowledged the rights of non-Muslim religious minorities to practice their faith freely, provided they paid a tax known as the jizya.
Capitalising on the religious tolerance and economic opportunities afforded by Moroccan Muslim rule, hundreds of thousands of Jewish refugees expelled from Andalusia by Queen Isabella arrived in Morocco. During this 15th-century exodus, Mogorashim (Jews expelled from Spain and Portugal) made the coastal cities and rural areas of Morocco their new homeland.
As a result, Moroccan Jewry developed a diverse identity, merging the rich Judeo-Andalusian traditions, honed over centuries in the Iberian Peninsula, with the vibrant Jewish-Maghrebi culture already deeply rooted in Morocco. This gave rise to one of the golden ages of Moroccan civilisation, with a cross-pollination of ideas as both Muslims and Jews lived side-by-side in peace and prosperity.
Discovering Morocco’s Jewish cultural heritage
European colonisation, the birth of Israel and Moroccan independence
The sudden exodus of Jews from Morocco can be traced back to several significant historical events that unfolded over just a few short years. Firstly, the French and Spanish colonisation of Morocco had a profound impact, as the two occupying powers deliberately applied selective policies aimed at favouring the assimilation of Jews and cultivating their perceived differences from the rest of the Muslim population.
This intentional divide-and-rule strategy created a growing sense of tension and mistrust between Moroccan Jews and the broader Muslim populace, who often viewed the Jews as conspiring with the foreign colonisers. Moroccan Jews enjoyed more favourable treatment from the French and Spanish protectorate authorities, particularly when it came to education, public services and administrative access - privileges that were frequently denied to the Muslim majority.
The establishment of the state of Israel in 1948 and the appeals for Jewish Aliyah (return to the Promised Land) further complicated the situation. The Jewish Agency, led by David Ben-Gurion, became active in Moroccan territory, setting up a transit camp in Mazagan (now El Jadida) in 1952 and creating a secret network dedicated to organising the migration of Jews to Israel.
During World War II, King Mohamed V refused to follow the Vichy government's demand to implement anti-Jewish laws, stating, “We have no Jews in Morocco, only Moroccans.” But with Morocco’s independence movement gathering steam, powered by a nationalist ideology infused with strong Islamic references, the divide was becoming apparent.
The subsequent wars between Israel and the Arab world marked a pivotal turning point in the history of the Middle East, with far-reaching consequences that reverberated across the region, including in Morocco. The loss of Arab territories to Israel ignited a groundswell of popular sympathy and support among Moroccan Muslims for their Arab brethren and the armies that had been defeated by the Israeli forces.
This heightened Arab-Israeli conflict had a profound impact on the delicate relationship between Jews and Muslims within Morocco itself. Compounding these societal tensions was the complicity of the Moroccan authorities, who, driven by a mix of gratitude and opportunism towards Israel, facilitated the exodus of Moroccan Jews in the aftermath of independence.
The decision of many Moroccan Jews to emigrate to Israel was fuelled by a complex interplay of historical, religious and personal factors. Beyond the political and social circumstances that led to the establishment of the State of Israel, the Moroccan Jewish community saw this momentous event through a profoundly spiritual lens. For many, the birth of Israel represented the fulfilment of a Talmudic prophecy and “returning” was perceived as a sacred duty and a spiritual calling.
Consequently, in the decades following Israel's establishment, a staggering 200,000 Moroccan Jews emigrated there, with another 50,000 following suit in the 1970s and 80s.
Discovering Morocco’s Jewish cultural heritage
The Jewish community in Morocco today
Today, the Moroccan Jewish community numbers only around 3,000 individuals. As Moroccan citizens, they enjoy the same fundamental rights and civic duties as their Muslim counterparts, with freedom of worship and the ability to adjudicate disputes within their own rabbinic court system, which is fully recognised and protected by the state. In fact, Morocco remains the sole Arab-Muslim nation where Jewish religious ceremonies and rituals continue to be openly celebrated within active synagogues.
In addition, the Moroccan government has been proactive in preserving and protecting the nation's Jewish cultural heritage. Major restoration initiatives have been undertaken at sites of cultural significance to the Jewish community, ensuring the upkeep and revitalisation of these invaluable historical assets. The crowning achievement in this endeavour was the 1997 opening of the Museum of Moroccan Judaism in Casablanca, which stands as a testament to the country's commitment to safeguarding and celebrating the rich tapestry of its multicultural identity.
Discovering Morocco’s Jewish cultural heritage today
Morocco has long been considered a holy land for the Jewish people and this reputation is well-deserved when one considers the vast network of Jewish places of worship that can be found scattered throughout the country. From the northernmost reaches of Tangier all the way to the desert oasis of Tafilalt and the Atlantic coastal town of Essaouira, there are synagogues, Jewish cemeteries and sacred sanctuaries to discover. This religious legacy is especially pronounced in certain regions, such as the interior Atlas Mountains, where some communities maintained Jewish majorities as recently as 50 years ago.
The cultural and spiritual footprint of Morocco's Jewish population is perhaps most vividly preserved in the historic mellah, or Jewish quarters, found within cities like Fes, Marrakech, Essaouira, Meknes and Rabat. Here, the Star of David can still be seen etched into the wooden doors of homes and the shutters of shops that were once occupied by Moroccan Jews.
This enduring Jewish heritage has ensured that religious tourism has remained a constant in the kingdom, with thousands of Moroccan Jews from Israel and around the world continuing to make pilgrimages to these sacred sites even to this day. There are even dedicated Jewish cultural heritage tours specialising in uncovering this unique facet of Morocco’s past, led by guides with in-depth knowledge.
Moroccan Jewish cultural heritage tour
Destinations to explore a Moroccan Jewish cultural heritage tour
Casablanca
Casablanca serves as the heart of Morocco's enduring Jewish heritage, with its distinct Jewish quarter (mellah) long-serving as a hub of the community's religious, educational and social institutions. Here, you can find synagogues, kosher eateries and schools that cater to the needs of the city's sizeable Jewish population (the vast majority of Morocco's Jewish residents today).
Of particular note is the Temple Beth-El, with its striking glass windows and ornate design. Beyond the temple, the Museum of Moroccan Judaism offers a comprehensive look at the diverse cultural traditions and artefacts that have shaped the Jewish experience in this North African nation. The museum's collection includes an impressive array of sacred texts, religious objects and traditional costumes, as well as historical photographs.
To learn more about visiting Morocco's biggest city, check out my Ultimate Travel Guide to Casablanca.
Marrakech
Once a thriving hub of Jewish culture and life (with over 50,000 Jewish people living in the city in 1947), Marrakech has witnessed a dramatic decline in its Jewish population over the past several decades. Despite this, the city's historic Jewish Quarter continues to be a fascinating destination for visitors with its lively atmosphere and bustling energy.
At the heart of the mellah stands the Slat Lazama Synagogue, a striking 15th-century structure adorned in a captivating blue-and-white colour scheme. Stepping through its doors leads to a beautiful riad-style courtyard, with the synagogue’s integration into a private home typical of the period. The Slat al-Azama Synagogue remains an active place of worship today.
This half-day private tour of Marrakech highlights many of the city's most important Jewish sites while exploring Morocco's rich cultural heritage.
To learn more about discovering the architectural treasures of the “Red City”, check out my Ultimate Travel Guide to Marrakech.
Moroccan Jewish cultural heritage tour
Fes
Within the ancient walls of Fes is a maze-like mellah, which dates back to the 15th century (making it the oldest mellah in Morocco). As you wander its narrow, winding streets, you'll be transported back in time, surrounded by the vestiges of a once-thriving Jewish community, including centuries-old tombstones.
Among the most notable sights is the Ibn Danan Synagogue, a 17th-century house of worship that stands as a testament to Fes' rich Jewish heritage. This beautifully preserved building, with its intricate tilework and ornate carvings, has been recently restored with help from the World Monuments Fund.
This half-day tour of Fes includes a visit to the mellah quarter, as well as the Bou Inania Medersa, the tomb of Moulay Idriss II and the Chouara Tannery.
You can learn more about visiting this ancient city in my Ultimate Travel Guide to Fes.
Sefrou
Nicknamed “Little Jerusalem”, Sefrou lies around 30 kilometres southeast of Fes on the slopes of the Middle Atlas mountains. Throughout its storied past, Sefrou maintained a vibrant Jewish community, with its mellah quarter surrounded by low walls within the town’s historic medina.
While the Jewish community is no longer present in Sefrou today, you can still observe the Alliance Israelite School of Em Habanim and an 18th-century synagogue (one of seven synagogues once found in the town). Not to miss is the Kef al Yahudi, a cave that’s believed to be the burial site of the Prophet Daniel.
Moroccan Jewish cultural heritage tour
Meknes
With its original mellah built on a sloping gorge, Meknes’ Jewish community constructed a new neighbourhood in the 1920s with the help of the influential Berdugo family. This included building the impressive Rabbi Yeoushoua Synagogue and the Talmud Torah, a religious school that was completed in 1930. Although it no longer functions as an active place of learning, the Talmud Torah remains a captivating architectural gem that draws many visitors to the mellah today.
To learn more about visiting Meknes, as well as nearby Moulay Idriss and the Roman ruins of Volubilis, check out my Ultimate Travel Guide to Meknes.
Essaouira
The historic mellah of coastal Essaouira has become a powerful draw for thousands of descendants of Morocco's once-thriving Jewish population. This should come as no surprise, given that the Jewish community was once the second-largest group in the city during its heyday, when it was known as Mogador.
At the heart of this pilgrimage site stands the Synagogue Slat Lkahal Mogador, a house of worship that once served as the epicentre of the city's Jewish social and religious life. Also of note is the lovely Chaim Pinto Synagogue, which remains an active place of worship, welcoming Jewish tour groups and pilgrims who come to connect with their cultural heritage.
You can learn more about visiting historic Mogador in my Ultimate Travel Guide to Essaouira.
Salé
Situated on the banks of the Bouregreg River is the historic city of Salé, which was home to a vibrant and influential Jewish community for centuries. A Jewish tombstone dating back to the 2nd century CE has been discovered in the city and Salé became a haven for many Jewish refugees fleeing the Iberian Peninsula in the 13th century.
The main entrance to the mellah, known as the Bab Lemrissa, was constructed during the Merenid dynasty, a Moroccan royal house with close ties to the Jewish population. The Merenids also oversaw the building of the stunning Medersa, an Islamic school that stands as a testament to the intertwined histories of the Jewish and Muslim communities in Salé.
One of the most revered figures from Salé's Jewish past is Rabbi Raphael Encaoua, whose tomb in the city's Jewish cemetery has become a site of pilgrimage for many. Known as a great scholar and spiritual leader, Encaoua's legacy continues to be celebrated through an annual hiloula that draws visitors from near and far.
Moroccan Jewish cultural heritage tour
Rabat
Just across the Bouregreg River from Salé is the Moroccan capital, Rabat, which was settled by a small Jewish community in the 17th century. They established themselves in the Behira quarter, which was known at the time as "New Salé."
Rabat’s current mellah is a more recent development, having been constructed in the 19th century on the site of former fruit orchards within the walls of the city's ancient medina. Despite its relatively young age, the Rabat mellah has become an important centre of Jewish life and culture in Morocco and around 50 Jewish families still live in the city today.
To learn more about visiting the Moroccan capital, check out my Ultimate Travel Guide to Rabat.
Tetouan
Tetouan has long been home to an influential Sephardi Jewish community, with roots dating back to the expulsion of Jews from Spain following the Reconquista and the Spanish Inquisition. These Sephardi Jews established a cultural enclave in Tetouan and spoke a form of Judaeo-Spanish known as Haketia, blending Castilian Spanish with elements of Arabic and Hebrew.
The Sephardi community in Tetouan was formally recognised and granted its own Jewish quarter in 1807. This mellah is particularly renowned for its 18th-century Yitzhak Benoualid Cathedral, an architectural testament to the community's enduring presence and traditions.
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