Morocco’s Cultural Capital: Essential Travel Guide to Fes
Looking for the best things to do in Fes or highly recommended places to stay? Discover the ideal time to visit, tips for getting around and the best city tours in this essential travel guide to Fes.
As one of Morocco’s most ancient cities, Fes overflows with cultural treasures and should be high on every traveller’s “must-visit” list. Founded in the 9th century, it was home to one of the first universities in the world and contains the largest intact medieval old city in existence.
It’s no wonder Fes is often referred to as Morocco’s cultural capital.
Fes was one of the first places we visited as a couple after we met and I loved it from the moment we arrived! From the labyrinthine alleys of its medieval medina to the architectural marvels of its mosques and madrasas, this city never fails to enchant.
Add to that colourful souks overflowing with traditional crafts and palatial riads. I really think Fes is like nowhere else in Morocco!
That being said, Fes can feel challenging for some visitors. There are a lot of people vying for your attention as you walk between sights and through the souks. Unfortunately, getting “hassled” is not uncommon and you do have to have your wits about you.
My advice would be to walk with purpose, avoid following anyone who tells you that you’re going the “wrong way” and be polite but firm if someone is making you feel uncomfortable. Remember, Fes is home to lots of wonderful people who are just tying to make a living, so don’t let a few “bad apples” ruin your experience or impression.
In this Essential Travel Guide to Fes, discover everything you need to know to experience this ancient city to the fullest, from the best things to do in Fes and incredible riad stays to my top tour recommendations.
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BEST TOURS IN FES
Don’t have time to read the whole article? These are my top Fes tour recommendations:
Cooking school at Palais Amani
Best things to do in Fes
Get lost in the winding alleys of Fes el Bali
This sprawling neighbourhood is a world unto itself, where you can lose yourself in the sights, sounds and smells of Morocco’s cultural capital. Pass through the grand, 14th-century entrance of Bab Boujloud to catch your first glimpse of the green-tiled minaret of the Bou Inania Madrasa, rising over the rooftops.
Within the ancient walls, Fes el-Bali is divided by a meandering river. To the left is where you’ll find historic monuments like Al Quaraouiyine Mosque, along with souks selling traditional Moroccan wares. From leather pouffes to gleaming brass platters and Fassi pottery, Fes is renowned for its artisan goods.
The right bank has more of a local vibe, with photogenic alleyways where you can observe the comings and goings of daily life. It’s here that you’ll find the Andalusian Mosque with its green-tiled roof and the eastern entrance gate of Bab Khoukha.
With its narrow lanes, Fes el Bali is best explored on foot and wandering its streets is definitely one of the best things to do in Fes. I’d recommend putting aside a few hours to get purposefully lost, soaking up its one-of-a-kind atmosphere.
Exploring the area is not so much about ticking off sights but discovering unexpected corners and enjoying authentic encounters with locals.
Don’t want to explore Fes el-Bali alone? This half-day tour of Fes is led by a highly knowledgeable guide who will share their unique insights on the city.
Visit Al Quaraouiyine Mosque and Al Attarine Madrasa
Initially established as a university, Al Quaraouiyine was founded in 859 BCE by Fatima al-Fihri and operates today as a mosque. While its prayer hall is off-limits to non-Muslims, you can usually catch a glimpse of the magnificent courtyard through one of the entrances.
Additionally, there’s a library that is accessible to all. Renovated in 2016, it features ornate tilework and centuries-old manuscripts, offering an insight into Al Quaraouiyine’s legacy as one of the world’s oldest continually operating universities.
Next to the mosque is Al Attarine Madrasa, a 14th-century Islamic school named after a marketplace nearby. Visiting this architectural wonder is, in my opinion, one of the best things to do in Fes.
Despite its small size, Al Attarine really is impressive, particularly following its recent restoration. Marvel at the stunning tilework, ornately carved plaster and cedar wood as you wander through its tranquil courtyard. In the adjacent market, you’ll find spices, nuts and dried fruit piled high, just as they have been for generations.
Want to discover more madrasas? This article details 6 of the most beautiful madrasas in Fes.
Get up close to Islamic Arts at Dar Batha Museum
This outstanding museum is housed in a Hispano-Moorish summer palace that dates back to the 19th century and has reopened to the public only recently following extensive restoration works. On display is everything from wood carvings to ironwork and textiles, as well as handcrafted Moroccan jewellery and traditional costumes.
For anyone interested in Moroccan design or ethnography, the Dar Batha Museum is a “must”!
One of the star exhibits is the ceramics room, home to a collection of iconic blue-and-white Fassi pottery (for which Fes is renowned). I also loved the timeline of Moroccan history, which helped me get my head around the often complicated succession of rulers in this corner of North Africa.
Information at Dar Batha is provided in English, French and Darija and there are some interesting videos explaining the various Moroccan crafts.
As captivating as the museum’s exhibits are, the building itself enchants with a shady internal courtyard filled with palms and flowering trees. Be sure to allow enough time to relax amidst its mosaic tiles and burbling fountains!
When we last visited Dar Batha, immediately following its reopening, it was blissfully quiet in the garden. But I suspect word will get out soon about just how great this museum is!
Be aware that DSLR cameras are not allowed to be used at Dar Batha but you can take pics on your phone.
For more information about visiting Dar Batha and what you can expect, check out my detailed article here.
Photograph the Chouara Tannery
Fes is home to the oldest leather tanning site on earth and witnessing the colourful pits of the Chouara Tannery is one of the best things to do in Fes. Watch as leatherworkers ply their ancient trade amid a sprawling complex of houses and shops, many of which are now filled with leather products crafted nearby.
If you’re travelling independently, you’ll find plenty of people in the area directing you to terraces. From here, you can view the tanneries, usually by passing through a store filled with leather goods.
If someone ends up “guiding” you (basically walking you through the site and providing information), there will be an expectation that you tip. That is unless you plan on buying something from their store.
Top tip:
If you know you don’t want to buy anything at the tanneries and just want to go up to take a couple of photos, be upfront with whoever is manning the door. This will save you any hassles later on. If you’re with a guide, they will do this negotiating for you.
In my experience, the busier the leather stores are, the less you will be hassled to buy and the easier it is to slip away after viewing the tanneries.
While visiting the tanneries is a “must”, be warned that the pungent smells emanating from the dyeing vats is intense. Come prepared with a scarf to cover your nose or mint leaves to inhale (mint leaves are provided by many of the leather cooperatives as you climb to their viewing platforms).
Witnessing the centuries-old techniques of Fes’s leather artisans is fascinating and the quality of leather goods for sale is high. Be prepared to negotiate – the starting price is just that!
Only have one day to explore Fes? Check out my recommended itinerary here.
Admire the Bou Inania Madrasa
Near the entrance to the old medina is this former theological college, which was commissioned by Sultan Bou Inan in the 14th century. It feels more spacious than Al Attarine but its restoration isn’t as recent, giving it a more authentic, “lived-in” feel.,
Decorating the central courtyard of Bou Inania are stunning mosaics, carved plaster designs and delicate cedar mashrabiyas, as well as several imposing doors. For a better understanding of its architecture, I’d recommend visiting as part of a guided experience, such as this full-day tour of Fes.
As it is an active place of worship, the madrasa closes for prayers throughout the day. In my experience, the quietest time to visit to capture people-free photos is when it reopens following prayer times.
Unlike the Al Attarine Madrasa, the upstairs area was not accessible last time I visited but this may change in the future.
Stroll through the Mellah quarter
The Mellah quarter has a fascinating history dating back to the 14th century when it first became home to the Jewish community in Fes. At its peak, this thriving neighbourhood was home to over 250,000 Jews and the architecture still reflects these roots.
At the heart of the Mellah quarter is the historic Ibn Danan synagogue, which was established in the 17th century and is entered through an unassuming door. While only a handful of Jewish residents remain (most left following the creation of Israel), the Mellah still holds onto its heritage and offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of Morocco’s Jewish community.
You can learn more about Morocco’s Jewish cultural heritage in this detailed article.
Visit the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Crafts
Hidden amid the metalworker shops of Place Nejjarine is a historic inn that once served a rest stop for travelling traders. It now showcases Morocco’s rich artistic heritage as the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Crafts, one of the most fascinating museums in Fes.
I love it here! Not only is the building gorgeous but the exhibits are really beautifully presented.
After paying the entrance fee (around 20 DH), you can wander through the salons where merchants once slept. Today, engraved granary doors, ornate dowry chests and delicate mashrabiya screens fill the rooms.
While the informative displays (in English, French and Darija) offer a unique insight into the country’s artisanal legacy, the splendour of the building is worth the entrance price alone.
At the heart of the property is a central courtyard that has been carefully restored, with sturdy pillars and carved wooden details. Be sure to visit the rooftop terrace for sweeping views across Fes. You can also relax with a drink in the cafe here.
Keep in mind that photos are not allowed of the exhibits at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Crafts. However, you can take images of the central courtyard.
For more cultural inspiration, check out this list of the best museums in Fes.
Relax in the Bou Jeloud Gardens
If you need to escape the hustle and bustle of the medina or just want a change of scenery, these picturesque gardens near Bab Boujloud are ideal. You can stroll along the winding garden paths lined with seasonal flower beds and gurgling fountains. Or just sit on a bench and watch the world go by.
One of the best times to visit the Bou Jeloud Gardens is as the day draws to a close. In the late afternoon, many locals come to stroll and enjoy time with their family. It’s particularly popular on summer evenings and, as it’s completely free, it can get busy!
Soak up the city views from the Merenid Tombs and Borj Nord
Perched atop a hill overlooking Fes are two important historic sites – the Merenid Tombs and Borj Nord – both of which offer wonderful views across the ancient city.
Make the steep trek up to Borj Nord to explore its 16th-century fortress, which now houses an intriguing military museum. Inside is a collection of rare weapons from around the world. This includes a massive 12-ton cannon used in the Battle of the Three Kings.
Continue walking up the hill until you reach the summit, where the golden-hued Merenid Tombs stand.
Top tip:
During my last visit to Fes in April 2025, the Merenid Tombs were closed for restoration. So check if they’re open before making the trek there!
While the crumbling tombs are in disrepair (this may change following restoration works!), the panoramic views of the city below and the rolling green hills in the distance are spectacular.
The Merenid Tombs site is a particularly popular spot to watch the sunset in Fes. After the sun sets, however, I wouldn’t hang around too long. It’s not necessarily a safe place to be after dark.
Top tours in Fes
If you’re equipped with Google Maps and have a good sense of direction, it’s possible to navigate Fes independently. That being said, having a guide with you can make things significantly easier. This is particularly true when it comes to finding the tanneries and coinciding your madrasa visits outside of prayer times.
Local guides also come with a wealth of knowledge to enhance your sightseeing experience. If you really want to delve into the cultural and architectural heritage of Fes, I would recommend exploring with a guide.
Top tip:
All of the below tours and experiences come highly recommended by other travellers. Be sure to read through the reviews to get an idea if they are right for you.
Covers the medina highlights in half a day – a great option if you just want an overview of the city before exploring independently.
A more comprehensive tour of Fes el-Bali, with time to explore many of the major attractions and architectural landmarks.
Held in a family home, this is a great “local” cooking experience (it’s recommended by 100% of previous participants)
Cooking school at Palais Amani
This cooking class is held at a professional cooking school in a beautifully restored palace-turned-hotel.
Full-day tour to Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss
Explores the imperial city of Meknes, the holy town of Moulay Idriss and the Roman ruins of Volubilis – great for history buffs!
A full day trip from Fes to Chefchaouen – the drive is long but it’s a great option if you only have one day to visit the “Blue Pearl”
2-day Sahara Desert tour (optional Marrakech dropoff)
A whirlwind tour from Fes to the Erg Chebbi dunes of the Sahara – you can be dropped off in Marrakech if you don’t want to return to Fes.
For more detailed information about the tours above, check out my list of the best Fes tours and day trips.
How to get to Fes
Fly to Fes-Saiss Airport
Located just 15 kilometres from the city centre is Fes-Saiss Airport, which receives flights from several major Moroccan cities and many European destinations. You can fly direct to Fes from London, Marseille and Barcelona, as well as Amsterdam, Paris and Rome.
The most affordable way to get from Fes-Saiss Airport into the city centre is by the number 16 public bus. Fixed price taxis are also available outside the arrivals terminal.Eexpect to pay around 120DH – check the sign in the arrivals area. Alternatively, you can book a prepaid private transfer with Welcome Pickups for a hassle-free experience.
Private transfer
The most comfortable and convenient way to reach Fes is by booking a private transfer, especially if you’re travelling in a group. You’ll get door-to-door service directly to your hotel or riad. This avoids the hassle of lugging bags to a bus station or negotiating fares with taxi drivers. Fes private transfers are available from most major cities across Morocco.
Casablanca to Fez private transfer
Private transfer from Rabat to Fez
Marrakech to Fez private transfer
Shared transfer from Chefchaouen to Fez or visa versa
By train
If you’re travelling to Fes from within Moroccan, train may be the most convenient option. The main railway station is Fes-Ville, which has regular connections to Casablanca, Tangier and Marrakech. Fares are relatively affordable and you can opt for extra comfort by booking a first-class ticket.
If you have trouble booking tickets through the official website at ONCF (it can be very temperamental), you can also book through 12Go.
Metered taxis from the Fes-Ville railway station to the medina should cost no more than 50DH. Always ask the driver for a rough price before getting in.
Bus
One of the most affordable ways to reach Fes is by bus. The Gare Routière bus terminal is conveniently located on the northwestern edge of the medina.
There are bus services to Fes from Marrakech, Essaouira and Tangier, as well as Rabat and Casablanca. You can either book directly with one of the bus companies serving the route or compare options at 12Go.
The journey from Casablanca takes just under 5 hours, with departures every hour. From Marrakech, it’s between 8.5 and 10 hours to reach Fes by bus. Some services depart in the evening, meaning you can save on accommodation by booking an overnight trip.
Best places to stay in Fes
As with Marrakech, Fes is renowned for its riad hotels and staying in one of these traditional homes is enchanting, to say the least. There are gorgeous historic details around every corner, from stucco mouldings to colourful tilework and arched doorways.
That being said, if you’re staying in a Fes riad, you don’t have to miss out on modern luxuries like air conditioning, comfortable beds and plunge pools!
Most of the best riads in Fes sit in the mid-range or luxury category. But smaller guesthouses called dars also await the budget-conscious traveller. With so many choices crammed into this fascinating city, deciding where to lay your head can be a challenge.
To help you out, I’ve put together a list of some of my favourite places to stay in Fes, with something for all budgets.
For more Fes accommodation ideas, check out my list featuring 8 of the best riads in Fes. If you’re after a high-end stay, this article details 7 of the best luxury hotels in Fes.
Luxury places to stay in Fes
Hotel Sahrai
A contemporary 5-star hotel in the hills of Fes, which comes complete with multiple dining venues, a sparkling swimming pool and stunning views of the medina.
Riad Fes – Relais & Châteaux
A stunning heritage stay in the heart of the Fes medina and under the luxurious Relais & Châteaux umbrella.
Karawan Riad
Seven individually decorated suites in a 17th-century palace and one of the best rooftop terraces in Fes.
Mid-range places to stay in Fes
Riad Fes Aicha
Warm hospitality in a beautifully decorated riad that’s perfect for couples or friends travelling together.
Riad Al Bartal
Antiques and plants fill the central courtyard of this gorgeous riad, which offers multi-course meals in the evenings.
Riad Rcif Alif Suite & Spa
A family-friendly riad complete with an indoor pool, a traditional hammam and a spa.
Affordable places to stay in Fes
Riad Fes Ziyat & Spa
A budget-friendly Fes riad with an open-air dining terrace, a traditional hammam and balcony rooms with city views.
Riad Sara
Located just steps from Bab Boujloud, this budget Fes riad boasts a traditional hammam and onsite restaurant serving Moroccan specialties.
Riad Dar Cordoba
Handmade textiles decorate the walls of this stunning riad, which offers one of the best breakfasts in Fes
Best time to visit Fes
The best times to visit Fes are during the spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November). During these periods, temperatures are just right for exploring this fascinating city. With highs hovering around 20 degrees Celsius, you’ll be comfortable walking the winding streets both day and night.
Summertime temperatures can reach the high 30s and the crowds of tourists can be heavy. If you’re visiting during this period, I’d recommend heading out to explore in the early morning, then again in the evening. Reserve the middle of the day to spend luxuriating at your riad.
Winter can be chilly, with temperatures dipping below 4 degrees C at night. But it’s also one of the quietest times to visit Fes. A winter trip to Fes means a more authentic experience and genuine interactions with locals.
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About Me
I’m Malika, a global traveller who first visited Morocco in 2014 before marrying a local and settling down in a little village on the Atlantic coast. Over the years, I’ve developed an intense love for Morocco, its incredible landscapes, storied cities and the exceptionally generous hospitality of its people.
Malika in Morocco is a place to share my years of experience exploring the country, from north to south and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Sahara Desert. As a resource for travellers visiting Morocco, I want to encourage others to experience this captivating destination the way they desire, whether that’s independently or under the expert guidance of local tour operators.
I believe strongly in supporting responsible and sustainable tourism initiatives while inspiring travel experiences that are life-impacting and mutually beneficial for both travellers and locals.
